They call it the gentle island, and for the most part that’s a pretty good description. The rolling hills, red clay soil, ideal climate and low-stress pace give Prince Edward Island all the ingredients for a relaxing, rejuvenating holiday. But there’s an element of excitement here too, that you can’t help but feel as you get out on its quiet back roads and experience the classic Canadian country drive. This is where you leave the passing lane behind and, in true roadster touring style, soak up the sun and the sea and the fresh summer air.

I’ll say it right up front – PEI was made for the convertible. No point of land on the Island sits more than 16 kilometres from the ocean, and smelling the salt air as you motor along is a very big part of the Island touring experience. It’s particularly exhilarating on those quiet back roads – peaceful, two-lane ribbons gently meandering through bright green fields studded with brilliantly coloured lupins, the landscape split here and there by black rivers and deep blue inlets where the island meets the sea.

Just 280 kilometers long and no more than 64 kilometers wide – compact enough to fit into Lake Ontario – Prince Edward Island is Canada’s smallest province. It also enjoys the lowest population density, with about 140,000 permanent residents. If you’re looking for gridlock, you’ve come to the wrong place. Whether you drive to PEI or fly there and rent some wheels, you’re in for a touring experience that’s simply beyond words.

The biggest draw – the coast – is pretty hard to miss as it seems all roads wind up there. Coastal scenic drives encircle the island, making it easy to plan your own personal getaway. The Points East Coastal Drive (pointseastcoastaldrive.com) takes you on a meandering tour through rural PEI, leaving you feeling like you’ve passed back in time to a kinder, simpler era. The North Cape Coastal Drive explores the scenic fishing villages, red sand beaches and beautiful white churches that define PEI on so many tourist calendars. And the Blue Heron Coastal Drive, covering much of the central part of the province, will leave you in search of a bigger memory card for your digital camera, with its magnificent harbours and historic sights. But while these popular drives make it easy to see get acquainted with all of the Island’s charms, inviting roads leading off the main track promise even further adventures. If you have time on your side, it’s fun to zig-zag along on a tip-to-tip tour, covering the entire Island from end to end.  

Not all of this driving will be on pavement. Indeed, one of the great highlights of any Island trip is the chance to drive PEI’s famous red clay roads. These rural routes date back to the first days of settlement, and are now protected under the province’s Scenic Heritage Road Program. Shouldered by a government-mandated buffer zone, these magnificent drives wind their way through fantastic canopies of trees – in some spots it’s like you’re driving through a tunnel in the forest. Although perhaps not the best choices in early spring or after a good downpour, the red clay roads are among the most scenic drives anywhere, so take your foot off the accelerator, downshift and enjoy the view. Just accept the fact the red dirt will get everywhere, even in dry weather. It’s part of the journey. On the provincial road map, Scenic Heritage Roads are identified by a special insignia – a brown circle showing two trees and a nice flat surface in between.

One of my favourites is County Line Road, a 4.5 kilometre ribbon of clay that runs south from Route 103 to Route 101 near Irishtown, along the border of Prince and Queens Counties. Rumrunners delivering hooch to the village of Kensington once transported their cargo along this secluded trail, which would be quite a sight considering the grade of some of the hills. It is said that in some spots a wagon driver with a full load of grain could touch the ears of his horse without leaning too far forward in the seat. The topography provides magnificent views, however, so keep that camera close at hand. Decades of erosion and yearly grading have literally carved this road several feet into the landscape, providing a driving experience unlike any other.

Nearby, the Millman Road, one of the first roads to be designated under the Scenic Heritage Road Program, winds gently through a mixed forest that forms a beautiful canopy through which the sun dapples onto the red soil. Originally a horse path used by settlers attending the Irishtown Anglican Church, erected in 1855, the Millman Road runs south from Route 101 in Irishtown for 2 kilometres before meeting with Route 231 in Burlington. It’s a short hop to be sure, but the stunning view near the road’s north end makes it all worthwhile.

The red soil takes its colour from the high iron oxide content, which rusts on exposure to air. You’ll see it everywhere – on rural roads and on PEI’s expansive sand beaches, many of them framed by towering red sandstone cliffs. Indeed, the provinces beaches are among its greatest tourist attractions. By July the water is the perfect temperature for a dip. Scan the sand at low tide with the kids to discover all sorts of marine life in tide pools, including a variety of small crabs. Beaches are also among the best places to see birds – more than 330 different varieties can be seen here, from giants like great blue herons and bald eagles, to endangered piping plovers.

Cavendish Beach, in Prince Edward Island National Park, is without question the most popular destination for sun worshippers, sand castle builders and water lovers alike. It’s magnificent red cliffs, luxurious sand and gentle surf provide those picture-postcard views everyone associates with PEI. Don’t expect to ever have it all to yourself, but visiting early or late in the day is one sure way to beat the crowds. As an added bonus, the sun is lower on the horizon then, creating exactly the right warm, dramatic lighting for the very best vacation photos.

Several provincial parks also provide access to magnificent and far less-crowded beaches. Cabot Beach Provincial Park, near Malpeque Harbour, offers breathtaking views at any time of day. Panmure, Lord Selkirk and Red Point provincial parks are other good bets.

Perhaps the best way to see the rugged red coast is from the water. Sea kayaking is a growing tourist industry in PEI and it’s easy to see why. Calm waters, gentle tides and spectacular views make the experience one you won’t ever forget. Sometimes you’ll share the water with seals and porpoises, and above, bald eagles and ospreys. Guided tours are available in a number of shoreline communities including Victoria, Morell, Malpeque, North Rustico and Ellerslie, plus you can find kayak rentals for your own unguided explorations just about everywhere. Modern one-person or two-person kayaks are easy to paddle, and give you a perspective that’s just beyond words.

Hope that rental roadster has a big trunk, because you’ll want to pack your golf clubs. Golf is positively huge on PEI, and with 30 courses to choose from, there’s no shortage of choices. For the most part booking a tee time is easy – the biggest challenge most visiting golfers face is keeping their eye on the ball. The ocean views tend to be a bit distracting. Real die-hards can even play two courses in a day. Best of all, green fees start at $10. Book your tee-times ahead of your arrival through the province’s toll-free dedicated number – 1-866-GOLF-PEI.

Golf just not your bag? Then hook a bike rack on the car, since PEI offers some of the best cycling in Canada. Picking a route is as easy as consulting the provincial road map, with no shortage of glorious seaside journeys to choose from. If you’re really ambitious, you can try cycling the Confederation Trail, which stretches 273 kilometers across the length of the Island from Tignish to Elmira. Built on an abandoned railway bed, it’s flat, safe and extremely well maintained, with mileage markers, towns every few kilometres and convenient parking access all along the way. Do the whole trail, or pick just the parts that appeal to you most. Can’t fit a bike on your car? Then rent one – there are at least 25 different places to rent bikes across the Island. Trading four wheels for two makes the perfect way to enjoy a sun-drenched afternoon.

Or pull on your hiking boots and hoof it. There are more than 60 woodland and scenic trails located in Canada's smallest province. To narrow it down and learn what each offers, pick up a copy of Nature Trails of Prince Edward Island, a pocket-sized guide by J. Dan McAskill and Kate MacQuarrie. It’s almost like having your own personal tour guide.

You don’t even have to leave town to enjoy a great hike or a superb walking tour. Park the car in downtown Charlottetown and enjoy a guided walking tour that explains the city’s magnificent architecture while you learn about the Fathers and Ladies of Confederation. Or for something a little different, check out the Ghostly Realm, a one-hour spooky hike through the city’s dark past, with wonderful tales of murder and intrigue. Charlottetown’s historic waterfront district provides the perfect setting for your own unguided walking tour, with fabulous restaurants and nightlife besides. Be sure to take in Founders’ Hall, right on the waterfront, which provides an educational and entertaining look at the creation of Canada.



1. Eat Seafood

Malpeque Bay is famous worldwide for its superb oysters, and they’re featured at many of the Island’s restaurants. Carr’s Oyster Bar, in Stanley Bridge, is a PEI institution – enjoy the best oysters in the world on the patio as you watch great blue herons patrol the shallows. Or for more formal dining, head for Charlottetown, park on Queen Street and visit Simms Corner Steakhouse and Oyster Bar. Besides numerous varieties of Island oysters, they have awesome steaks and a truly incredible wine list.

As you drive along the ocean shore you’ll often see rows of round floats that look somewhat like swimming pool lane markers. They’re actually floats marking the location of mussel socks. Each year PEI mussel farmers harvest a whopping 37 million pounds of blue mussels to feed hungry diners around the world. One of the best spots to enjoy a mussel dinner is right in Charlottetown. Flex Mussels, on Lower Water Street, offers no less than 24 varieties of mussel dinners, in addition to a full range of other seafood options. The lobster bisque mussels are not to be missed.

When you’re in Cavendish, hit the boardwalk and try your mussels deep-fried. They’re so good even people who don’t like shellfish gobble them up by the basket.

What’s a PEI trip without lobster? Make your way to Montague and enjoy a classic lobster dinner at Windows on the Water, as you soak in the spectacular view of Montague Harbour.

More of a do-it-yourselfer? Then try digging your own clams along almost any beach. Soft-shell clams, quahaugs and bar clams are easy to gather at low tide – you don’t need a license, but there are a few rules to protect the resource. Bar clams must be at least 102 mm in length and soft-shell clams and quahaugs must be at least 50 mm in length. You’re allowed to have up to 100 of each in your possession.

2. Go To A Ceilidh

A Ceilidh – pronounced kay-lee – is a giant party, Celtic-style! These festive affairs feature spirited music, lively dancing, great food and beverages and a wonderful time had by all.

Just about every small town on the Island has regular Ceilidhs through the summer months. Watch for signs or, better yet, ask around for the lowdown on what’s happening where.

3. See A Lighthouse

One would expect an island to have more than its share of lighthouses, and there are about 50 of them in PEI. Most are easily accessible by car and they’re clearly marked on the provincial road map. Some are open to the public, and the view from the top has to be seen to be believed.

4. Visit Green Gables

PEI’s north coast provided the dramatic setting for Lucy Maude Montgomery’s timeless classic Anne of Green Gables, and many of the sites featured in the novel are easily accessible by road. Much of the story is set at the Green Gables farm, located just west of Cavendish and now known as the Green Gables National Heritage Site. Part of PEI National Park, the farm was the home of David and Margaret MacNeill, who were cousins of Montgomery's grandfather.


Getting There

You can drive to PEI easily enough – regular ferry service connects the Island to Caribou, Nova Scotia. Or drive the Confederation Bridge, which carries the Trans-Canada Highway from Cape Jourimain, New Brunswick, and Borden-Carleton, PEI.  A total of 65 massive concrete piers raise the bridge more than 40 metres above Northumberland Strait, capped by a 60 metre navigation span for shipping. At 12.9 kilometres in length, it’s the longest bridge in the world over waters that freeze.

Too far to drive? Air Canada and Westjet both offer daily service to Charlottetown, where you can rent your ride (Avis, Budget, Hertz, National and Alamo are located right in the terminal).


For More Info:

Tourism PEI
Box 940
Charlottetown, PE
C1A 7M5
Toll-free: (800) 463-4734
gentleisland.com