To this day, the Okanagan First Nations people believe a monster, N'ha-a-itk or Ogopogo, lives off Squally Point in the depths of BC’s Okanagan Lake. For most of the summer, however, N'ha-a-itk, seems to go deep and abandon the Okanagan to the thousands of boaters who flock to its crystalline waters every season. There’s more than enough to see and do around the Okanagan Valley from early spring onward. The lake is a hotbed of marine activity with poker runs, fishing, wake-boarding, waterskiing sailing, swimming, and diving.
In the spring, if you start early enough in the day, you can ski at the Apex, Big White or Silver Star resorts in the morning, play 18 holes in the afternoon then go for an evening’s cruise on the lake wearing only a light sweater. Couple this with the scores of wineries bordering the lake, the three major urban centres and dozens of smaller communities lining the shore and you have a destination that goes far beyond being a simple regional hotspot.
Okanagan Lake is shaped like a stretched S. It is a straight run southward from Vernon to Kelowna. Then, just below the bridge at Kelowna, halfway along the lake’s length, it runs to the west for fifteen kilometres before turning south again to Penticton.
Despite N’ha-a-tik, the weather in the Valley is glorious from April through most of October. Temperatures heat up early. It isn’t unusual to have flowers blooming in late February. The Okanagan Valley has several geographic features going for it that create its unique microclimate.
The Valley is the remains of an ancient lake that gouged out Thompson Plateau. It runs north/south and during the summer months, the Valley is generally the warmest spot in Canada.
Since the lake is a typical mountain configuration – long and narrow – wave heights rarely top one metre and the variegated coastline provides enough sheltered, lee coves that even if you are hit by one of the summer’s infrequent squalls (the blows increase in number as fall turns into winter) you can find a safe place to drop your hook to wait it out. With a surface area of 35,008 hectares, Okanagan is one of the largest lakes in western Canada. Yet it is one of the most awkward to get to. The TransCanada Highway skirts north of it so you have to swing south on Highway 97 at Sicamous and you’re still almost 40 minutes before you get to Vernon. Boaters coming in tow from Vancouver or other points west usually take the back road (Highway #33) and come out of the mountains onto the lake just above Penticton. Getting around the lake itself is very simple. No intricate navigation is needed here. There are no shoals or foul ground in its centre and the lake is home to only two islands – Rattlesnake and Grant/Whiskey. The deepest spot on the lake (232 metres) is just west of Grant Island.
Grant Island is also called Whiskey Island by the locals. Legend has it that the island was purchased at one point in the 19th century for a gallon of mountain dew. Rattlesnake Island sits at the western dogleg that takes the lake south and it comes by its name honestly. It is an arid hunk of rock, 100 metres from shore, which provides enough heat to warm the bones of a host of Western rattlesnakes. If you do encounter a rattlesnake, they’re protected and on the province’s Blue List (one step below endangered) so don’t stomp it. They’re innocuous unless provoked.
There are shallows along the shoreline that can cost you a visit to the local prop shop, so be sure to pick up a chart of the lake and pay attention to it. The largest navigational hazard in the lake is the floating William R. Bennett Bridge at Kelowna. It is the only crossing point on the lake. For the past few years, a second bridge has been under construction (traffic on the old bridge rivals rush hour on Toronto’s Don Valley Parkway) and is slated to open this summer (2008).
For a while this spring and early summer passage beneath the bridge is going to be partly restricted by bridge construction. “The real issue is going to be for vessels over 5 metres high,” says project director John Buckle. “Sailboats, large powerboats or houseboats will be affected for a month after the opening of the new bridge. There’ll be a period of about two weeks from mid-June until the beginning of July when large vessels will be restricted from passing under bridge. After that, boats with a maximum mast or bridge height (vertical clearance) of 18 metres will be able to pass under the new bridge without a problem.”
Mooring, however, can be another issue. With no new marinas being built, this makes for fierce competition for the existing facilities. Berthing is still available at most yacht clubs and marinas, but you have to call ahead. Limited docking is available at the Kelowna Marina. Next door, at the Grand Laguna (you enter the lagoon through a set of locks) the hotel has 30 slips available to hotel guests but not for transient boaters. Further away from the city centre, hotels and resorts such as the Eldorado Marina and Manteo Resort offers overnight docking and temporary berthing if you stop in for dinner. There are also 30 transient slips available at Lake Okanagan Resort. They have one slip generally open if you want to head into their restaurant.
One really romantic treat might be to spend a night at either the Eldorado or Okanagan Resort. The Eldorado is a lovely old heritage-style boutique hotel and Okanagan Resort is one of the lake’s true classics. Anchoring out is another favourite pastime on the lake and a good alternative. No matter if N'ha-a-itk has his knickers in a knot, there is always a protected cove to tuck into with good swing room. On the southern stretch of the lake, there are public mooring buoys scattered sporadically along the eastern shore. The first ones you encounter are three kilometres south of Commando Bay. There are also four at the foot of Okanagan Mountain Park near its southern edge.
At Commando Bay (named for the training ground where the Devil’s Brigade learned their mountaineering skills in WWII) are two buoys and one buoy each in the coves to north and south of the bay. Two more buoys are set out in Reluctant Dragon Cove near Rattlesnake Island. There are no more until you reach Bertram Creek Park, 12 kilometres to the east. Across the lake there may be docks available at the Summerland, Peachland or Westbank Yacht Clubs. It’s a good idea to confirm before your arrival. At Summerland there is a good restaurant called Shaughnessy's Cove. The town has other good places to eat, but they require a major climb up to the business section.
For dining out, Peachland is a peach. Along Beach Ave., there is the Blind Angler (pub grub), The Gasthaus (exceptionally good German fare) and Bliss Bakery. All are within walking distance of the harbour or if the weather is good, you can throw the hook in right out front and take the dinghy in.
Since Okanagan Lake has a lot of beaches, remember to look for the Swimming Area Only/Boaters Keep Out signs. Northwest of Kelowna, at Trader’s Cove Park are a couple of buoys available, then nothing until Otter Bay, just before swinging northeast toward Vernon.
This is logging country and the area around the Tolko plywood mill on the Kelowna side, Bear Creek Provincial Park and Trader’s Cove on the western shore have a lot of log booms anchored near shore. If you are cruising at night, stay well out or don’t over-run your lights.
Fintry, on the northwest shore is a good anchorage. It’s protected from all but a north or northeast blow and the bottom is good holding ground comprised of fine gravel and silt. It also has an interesting museum and restored house. The north end of the lake is divided by a headland into two arms. The eastern arm takes you into Vernon and the Vernon Yacht Club.
By all accounts, fishing on the lake is not what it used to be. However, it wouldn’t hurt though to drag a Mepps Black Fury or Panther Martin spinner behind your boat. In the high summer the fish go deep looking for cooler temperatures.
Finally, the wines of the Okanagan make an excellent excuse to cruise this region. Even though you can see dozens of vineyards lining the clay bluffs above the lake, they are difficult, if not impossible, to get to without a bicycle or car. Kelowna and Naramata offer the best opportunities to visit wineries while travelling by boat. Starting out from Penticton, Naramata is eight kilometres or less than an hour up the east side of the lake. There are limited berths available at the Naramata Yacht Club Pier and, if you have a dinghy or don’t mind swimming ashore, you can go on the hook. The bottom is sandy and it’s not advised to anchor out in a southerly blow.
As the site of the Naramata Bench, this area has everything a winemaker could want and is quickly becoming the vintage of the month for new wineries. More than 20 vintners who have established operations here.
The vineyards are located up some pretty substantial clay bluffs that require a bit of a hike. If that’s not to your liking, you may be better off sampling wines (along with a terrific meal) at the Naramata Heritage Inn. This is an easy, ten-minute walk from the lake and the inn’s Cobblestone Winebar can provide a broad sampling of the hundred plus wines produced in the valley.
At Kelowna, the situation is a little different. Most of the wineries in and around Kelowna require alternate transportation. The only one situated within walking distance of the lakeshore is the venerable Calona Wines. It is worthwhile to make a visit to the Wine Museum in the old Laurel Packinghouse at the corner of Ellis and Cawston in the heart of the Cultural District.
That being said, several wine tour companies will pick you up at your boat and take you for a half or full day tour and tasting. This works best to avoid impaired driving or operation of your boat while you still get a chance to sample the local offerings.
No matter what your plans are for the summer, it is worth it to consider including a cruise in BC’s Interior on the pristine waters of Okanagan Lake.
DESTINATION SIDEBAR:
ABOUT THE LAKE:
Length: 115 kilometres (72 miles)
Width: 3.5 kilometres (2.17 miles)
Shoreline: 282 kilometres (174.8 miles)
Max. Depth: 242 metres (794 feet)
TRIP PLANNING:
CHS Chart # 3052
Area Code: 250
Emergency: 911
Kelowna Chamber of Commerce (Kelowna Tourism): www.kelownachamber.org
Penticton Chamber of Commerce: www.penticton.org
Vernon Chamber of Commerce: www.vernonchamber.ca
Tourism BC: www.hellobc.com
AMENITIES:
Penticton
• The Penticton Yacht and Tennis Club (492-2853 or admin@pytc.ca) has fuel, a boat launch, and pump-out.
• Grocery stores, pharmacies and the post office are a short walk away. Penticton also has a Canadian Tire with a good marine department.
• Lots of restaurants serving everything from Mex/Tex to Greek cuisine (try Theo’s 492-4019 for Greek and Vallarta Grill 492-5610 for Mexican) there are also Italian, Caribbean and International eateries. The Penticton Lakeside Resort, Convention Centre & Casino is another option.
Naramata
Cobblestone Winebar and Rock Oven Dining Room, Heritage Inn
496-6808
Robinson at First Street, Naramata.
E-mail: innkeeper@naramatainn.com
Website: www.naramatainn.com
Summerland
Summerland Yacht Club
494-8312
www.summerlandyachtclub.com
Shaughnessey’s Cove Pub & Restaurant
494-9448
shaughnessys@shawcable.com
Peachland
Peachland Yacht Club
767-6538
www.peachland.ca
Blind Angler Waterfront Grill
250-767-9264
Gasthaus On The Lake
767-6625
Bliss Bakery
767- 2711
Westbank
Westbank Yacht Club
768-5472
wyc@telus.net
Kelowna
Kelowna Marina
861-8001
Eldorado Marina
763-7500
The Grand Okanagan
763-4500
Lake Okanagan Resort
769-3511
Gas, ice and pump-out are available at the Kelowna Marina and gas is available at the Eldorado. Even though you are in the downtown core, the closest grocery store is on Bernard Street. The closest wine store is in the Laurel Packinghouse at the Wine Museum of BC. The cultural district with the Kelowna Museum, Art Gallery, Laurel Packinghouse and Rotary Centre For The Arts is virtually across Water St. and can make for an interesting visit.
For dining out, try any of the restaurants in the Grand and Rose’s Pub next door to the Water St. launch ramp. The Hotel Eldorado has one of the best outdoor patios in the city during the summer. For ethnic food, try Dawett’s Fine Indian Cuisine on Ellis and the Siam Orchid on Bernard (best Thai food west of Toronto).
Vernon
Vernon Yacht Club
545-5518
www.vernonyachtclub.com
Vernon is a bit of a hike in from Okanagan Landing where the Vernon Yacht Club is located. Nearby facilities include Predator Ridge Golf Club 542-3436. There is a Canadian Tire Store, Walmart, and a number of grocery stores, pharmacies and other amenities in Vernon but you will require a car to get into town. Enterprise Rent-A-Car (542-7978 local or 1-800-736-8222) will pick you up.
